If you have ever stood over the food bowl wondering “Am I feeding my cat too much — or not enough?”, you are not alone. Overfeeding is one of the most common (and most preventable) health problems in house cats: surveys of U.S. cats consistently find that more than half are overweight or obese, and that extra weight is linked to diabetes, arthritis, urinary disease, and a shorter, less comfortable life (Cornell Feline Health Center).
The good news: getting portions right is mostly simple arithmetic. This guide gives you a quick feeding chart by weight, then shows you the exact vet-approved formula to fine-tune it for your cat — whether you feed wet food, dry food, or a mix of both.
The short answer: Most healthy, spayed/neutered, indoor adult cats need roughly 180–300 calories (kcal) per day, which usually works out to about ⅓–1 cup of dry food or 2–3 small (3 oz) cans of wet food daily, split into two or more meals. Your cat’s exact number depends on its ideal body weight, age, activity level, and the calorie density printed on your specific food’s label — so use the chart below as a starting point, then adjust.
Quick Cat Feeding Chart by Weight
Use the table below as a starting estimate for a typical adult cat that is spayed or neutered, lives indoors, and has a normal activity level. Feed to your cat’s ideal (healthy) weight, not necessarily its current weight — more on that below.
Table 1 — Daily calorie targets by weight
| Cat’s ideal weight | Approx. weight (kg) | Resting need (RER) | Typical daily calories |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 lb | 2.3 kg | ~130 kcal | ~155 kcal |
| 6 lb | 2.7 kg | ~150 kcal | ~180 kcal |
| 7 lb | 3.2 kg | ~165 kcal | ~200 kcal |
| 8 lb | 3.6 kg | ~185 kcal | ~220 kcal |
| 9 lb | 4.1 kg | ~200 kcal | ~240 kcal |
| 10 lb | 4.5 kg | ~220 kcal | ~260 kcal |
| 11 lb | 5.0 kg | ~235 kcal | ~280 kcal |
| 12 lb | 5.4 kg | ~250 kcal | ~300 kcal |
| 13 lb | 5.9 kg | ~265 kcal | ~320 kcal |
| 14 lb | 6.4 kg | ~280 kcal | ~335 kcal |
| 15 lb | 6.8 kg | ~295 kcal | ~355 kcal |
| 16 lb | 7.3 kg | ~310 kcal | ~370 kcal |
| 18 lb | 8.2 kg | ~340 kcal | ~405 kcal |
| 20 lb | 9.1 kg | ~365 kcal | ~440 kcal |
Calorie targets use the standard veterinary formula (Resting Energy Requirement × 1.2 for a neutered adult). Individual cats can vary by as much as 30–50% from these estimates (Merck Veterinary Manual), so treat this as a launch point, not a rule.
Strictly indoor, sedentary, or gaining weight? Start about 15–20% lower than the number above and reassess in a few weeks.
Table 2 — Example portions by weight
Because every food has a different calorie density, these portions assume common (but not universal) values: dry food ≈ 400 kcal per 8-oz cup, small can ≈ 90 kcal per 3 oz, and large can ≈ 165 kcal per 5.5 oz. Always check your own label and recalculate — the difference between brands is large.
| Cat’s ideal weight | Dry food only (~400 kcal/cup) | Wet food only (3 oz cans) | Wet food only (5.5 oz cans) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 lb | ~⅜ cup | ~1.5–2 cans | ~1 can |
| 8 lb | ~½–⅝ cup | ~2.5 cans | ~1⅓ cans |
| 10 lb | ~⅔ cup | ~3 cans | ~1½–1¾ cans |
| 12 lb | ~¾ cup | ~3–3½ cans | ~1¾–2 cans |
| 15 lb | ~⅞ cup | ~4 cans | ~2 cans |
| 20 lb | ~1⅛ cups | ~5 cans | ~2½–3 cans |
⚠️ Don’t rely on the “cups per day” printed on the bag alone. Those charts are generous estimates aimed at a broad range of cats, and following them is a common reason cats gain weight. The most accurate method is to match your cat’s calorie target to your food’s kcal value (shown below).
Why “How Much to Feed a Cat” Isn’t a One-Size-Fits-All Number
Two cats can weigh exactly the same and still need very different amounts of food. A young, intact, indoor-outdoor tomcat burns far more energy than a middle-aged, spayed, apartment cat who naps 18 hours a day. That’s why a chart alone can only get you close — the finishing touch is matching calories to your individual cat.
There are three ideas worth understanding, and they make everything else click into place:
- Cats eat calories, not cups. “Half a cup” of one kibble can contain almost twice the calories of “half a cup” of another. The portion that matters is measured in kilocalories (kcal).
- Feed to the ideal weight, not the current one. If your cat is already overweight, feeding to maintain that weight just keeps it overweight. Base the target on where your cat should be.
- The chart is a starting point; your cat’s body is the real gauge. After two to four weeks, you check the waistline and the scale, then nudge portions up or down. (We cover exactly how in the Body Condition Score section.)
How to Calculate Exactly How Much to Feed Your Cat (Calories, Not Cups)
This is the same four-step method veterinary teams use. It takes about five minutes with a calculator.
Step 1 — Find your cat’s ideal body weight
Weigh your cat (the easy way: weigh yourself, then weigh yourself holding the cat, and subtract). If your cat is already at a healthy weight, that number is your target. If not, ask your vet for a realistic ideal weight, or estimate it using the Body Condition Score. All the math below uses ideal weight.
Step 2 — Calculate the Resting Energy Requirement (RER)
RER is the number of calories your cat burns at complete rest. The standard veterinary formula is:
RER = 70 × (ideal body weight in kg)^0.75
Convert pounds to kilograms first (1 lb = 0.45 kg). For example, a 10 lb cat is 4.5 kg:
RER = 70 × (4.5)^0.75 ≈ 70 × 3.1 ≈ 218 kcal
If the exponent math is awkward, cats between about 2 kg and 45 kg can use the simpler linear version, RER = (30 × kg) + 70, which lands in the same ballpark (Merck Veterinary Manual).
Step 3 — Multiply by an activity / life-stage factor (this gives you MER)
Resting isn’t the whole story. Multiply RER by a factor that reflects your cat’s real life to get the Maintenance Energy Requirement (MER) — the daily feeding target (Pet Nutrition Alliance).
Table 3 — MER multipliers for cats
| Cat’s situation | Multiply RER by |
|---|---|
| Weight loss needed | 0.8 (of RER at target weight) |
| Neutered, inactive / strictly indoor | 1.0 |
| Neutered adult (typical) | 1.2 |
| Intact (not neutered) adult | 1.4 |
| Active adult / needs to gain weight | 1.4–1.6 |
| Kitten, ~4 months to adult | 2.0 |
| Kitten, under ~4 months | 2.5 |
| Pregnant (gestation) | 1.6–2.0 |
| Nursing (lactation) | 2.0–6.0 |
Example: our 10 lb neutered indoor cat with RER ≈ 218 kcal × 1.2 = ~260 kcal/day. A sedentary indoor cat might do better nearer 218 kcal; an intact or very active one nearer 305 kcal.
Quick shortcut: a widely used rule of thumb is about 20 kcal per pound of ideal body weight per day for a neutered indoor adult — so ~200 kcal for a 10 lb cat. It’s a good conservative starting point for cats prone to weight gain. The formula above is more precise, especially for very small or very large cats.
Step 4 — Convert calories into an actual portion (the label method)
Now translate your daily calorie target into food using your product’s label. Look for the calorie content (often written as kcal ME/cup, kcal/can, or kcal per 100 g — “ME” means metabolizable energy). Then:
- Dry food (per meal):
grams per day = daily kcal ÷ (kcal per 100 g ÷ 100)— or if the label gives kcal/cup, just divide daily kcal by kcal/cup to get cups per day. - Wet food: divide daily kcal by the kcal per can to get cans per day.
Worked example (wet food): Your cat needs 260 kcal/day and your cans are 95 kcal each → 260 ÷ 95 ≈ 2.7 cans/day (round to about 2¾ cans, split across meals).
Worked example (dry food): Your cat needs 260 kcal/day and your kibble is 380 kcal/cup → 260 ÷ 380 ≈ 0.68 cups/day (about ⅔ cup).
Then measure with a kitchen scale or a proper measuring cup — eyeballing “a scoop” is one of the fastest ways to accidentally double a portion.
How Much Wet Food Should I Feed My Cat?
Wet (canned) food is mostly water — often around 75–80% moisture — so it’s lower in calories per gram and helps with hydration and urinary health, which many veterinarians favor for cats prone to weight gain or bladder problems (Cornell Feline Health Center).
Because moisture content varies, calories per can range widely — a 3 oz can may be anywhere from about 70 to 100 kcal, and a 5.5 oz can from roughly 150 to 220 kcal. As a rough guide for a wet-food-only diet:
- 8 lb cat (~220 kcal): about 2–3 small (3 oz) cans/day, or ~1⅓ large (5.5 oz) cans.
- 10 lb cat (~260 kcal): about 3 small cans/day, or ~1½–1¾ large cans.
- 12 lb cat (~300 kcal): about 3–3½ small cans/day, or ~2 large cans.
Always divide the daily total by your can’s kcal, then split it into at least two meals. Refrigerate opened cans and discard food left out for more than a few hours.
How Much Dry Food Should I Feed My Cat?
Dry food (kibble) is convenient, shelf-stable, and calorie-dense — which is exactly why it’s easy to overfeed. A single 8-oz measuring cup of kibble commonly holds 300–500 kcal, so a small over-pour adds up fast.
For a typical neutered indoor adult, dry-food-only portions land around:
- 8 lb cat: ~½–⅝ cup/day
- 10 lb cat: ~⅔ cup/day
- 12 lb cat: ~¾ cup/day
- 15 lb cat: ~⅞ cup/day
If you free-feed (leaving kibble out all day), still measure the daily allowance in the morning and let that be the whole day’s ration — don’t top the bowl up on sight. Many cats self-regulate poorly, and constant grazing is a leading cause of creeping weight gain. If your cat inhales food and begs constantly, a timed automatic feeder or puzzle feeder can spread the same calories across the day.
Mixed Feeding (Wet + Dry): How to Split Portions
Mixing wet and dry lets you combine hydration with convenience — you just have to count both toward the same daily calorie total.
A simple approach: decide on a split (say 50/50 by calories), then divide.
Example — 10 lb cat needing 260 kcal, split 50/50:
- Wet half = 130 kcal → with 90 kcal cans, that’s ~1.5 small cans/day.
- Dry half = 130 kcal → with 380 kcal/cup kibble, that’s ~⅓ cup/day.
The exact ratio is up to you and your vet; what matters is that wet + dry calories together equal the target, not that each equals it on its own. A frequent mistake is feeding a “full” wet portion and a “full” dry portion — effectively doubling the food.
7 Factors That Change How Much to Feed Your Cat
The chart assumes an “average” cat. Adjust up or down for these:
- Ideal vs. current weight. Always feed to the target weight. Feeding to a heavier current weight just maintains the excess.
- Spay/neuter status. Neutering lowers energy needs by roughly 20–30%, so neutered cats need noticeably less than intact ones.
- Age & life stage. Kittens need far more per pound; many seniors need less (though some very old cats need more — see below).
- Activity level. An indoor cat that mostly sleeps needs less than one that runs, climbs, and hunts toys all day.
- Indoor vs. outdoor. Outdoor cats generally burn more energy, especially in cold weather.
- Pregnancy & nursing. Energy needs climb steeply during gestation and can multiply several times over during lactation.
- Health conditions. Diabetes, hyperthyroidism, kidney disease, and recovery from illness all change calorie and nutrient needs — these require a vet’s plan, not a generic chart.
How Often Should You Feed a Cat?
Cats are natural “grazers” that eat many small meals in the wild, but for most households, two to three measured meals a day works well and helps with portion control. Kittens need more frequency — three to four meals a day while they’re growing.
A few practical tips:
- Split the daily allowance, don’t add to it. Two meals means half the daily calories at each, not two full portions.
- Consistency helps. Regular mealtimes reduce begging and make it easier to notice appetite changes (an early sign of illness).
- Puzzle feeders and timed feeders are excellent for cats who eat too fast or gain weight easily.
How Much to Feed a Kitten by Age
Kittens grow rapidly and need two to three times more calories per pound than adults, from a food labeled for “growth” or “all life stages.” Free access to food is often appropriate for very young, healthy kittens, but you should still track roughly how much they eat.
Table 4 — Approximate kitten calorie needs
| Age | Approx. weight | Daily calories | Meals/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| ~8–12 weeks | ~1.5 lb | ~130 kcal | 3–4 |
| ~3–4 months | ~2.5 lb | ~190 kcal | 3–4 |
| ~4–6 months | ~4 lb | ~240 kcal | 3 |
| ~6–9 months | ~6 lb | ~300 kcal | 2–3 |
| ~9–12 months | ~8 lb | ~330 kcal | 2 |
Numbers are estimates — kittens vary a lot by breed and growth stage. Transition to adult food around 10–12 months for most cats (large breeds like Maine Coons mature later).
Feeding Senior Cats
There’s no single senior rule. Many cats 7–11 years old become less active and need slightly fewer calories to avoid weight gain. But cats 12+ often lose the ability to digest and absorb nutrients efficiently and may actually need more calories to hold their weight — unexpected weight loss in an older cat is a red flag worth a vet visit.
Practical priorities for older cats: high-quality, easily digestible protein; plenty of moisture (canned food or a fountain); and regular weigh-ins, since gradual weight change is easy to miss.
Is My Cat Overweight? Use the Body Condition Score
The scale tells you how much your cat weighs; the Body Condition Score (BCS) tells you whether that weight is right. Vets use a 1–9 scale, where 4–5 is ideal, 6–7 is overweight, and 8–9 is obese (Cornell Feline Health Center). You can assess it at home in three quick checks:
- Rib check: Run your hands flat along your cat’s sides. You should feel the ribs easily under a thin layer of fat — like feeling the back of your hand. If you have to press hard, there’s too much fat; if the ribs feel sharp and bony, too little.
- Profile check (from the side): Look for a slight upward “tuck” of the belly behind the ribs. A belly that hangs straight or sags suggests excess fat. (Note: a small loose flap of skin low on the belly — the “primordial pouch” — is normal and not the same as fat.)
- Overhead check (from above): Look for a visible waist that curves in behind the ribs. No waist, or a rounded/oval outline, points to overweight.
For a full visual walkthrough, the WSAVA Body Condition Score chart for cats and the Pet Obesity Prevention BCS guide are excellent free references.
How to Put an Overweight Cat on a Diet (Safely)
Never crash-diet a cat. Cutting food too aggressively can trigger a dangerous liver condition called hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease), which can be life-threatening. Weight loss should be slow and supervised.
A safe plan usually looks like this:
- Get a target weight and a vet check first (to rule out medical causes and set a realistic goal).
- Feed to 0.8 × RER of the ideal weight as a starting calorie budget — for example, a cat whose target is 10 lb (RER ≈ 218 kcal) would start around ~175 kcal/day.
- Aim for slow loss: roughly 1–2% of body weight per week, no more.
- Weigh every 2–4 weeks and adjust. Progress that’s too fast is as much a warning sign as no progress at all.
- Consider a therapeutic weight-loss diet — these are formulated to deliver full nutrition on fewer calories, so your cat isn’t left hungry or short on nutrients.
The Association for Pet Obesity Prevention has helpful owner resources, and a hands-on plan from your veterinarian is the safest route.
Treats, Table Scraps & the 10% Rule
Treats count. The widely used veterinary guideline is the 10% rule: treats and extras should make up no more than 10% of your cat’s daily calories, with the other 90% coming from complete, balanced food.
For a cat eating 260 kcal/day, that’s only about 26 kcal of treats — often just a few small pieces. A surprising number of “my cat is gaining weight but I barely feed him” cases come down to treats, milk, and food scraps that were never counted. If you use treats for training or bonding, subtract them from the day’s meals rather than adding on top, and avoid feeding cats toxic human foods (onion, garlic, chocolate, grapes/raisins, and anything with the sweetener xylitol).
8 Common Cat-Feeding Mistakes to Avoid
- Following the bag’s chart without adjusting. Those ranges run high for most indoor cats.
- Free-feeding without measuring. “Keeping the bowl full” is the classic path to obesity.
- Eyeballing portions. Use a scale or measuring cup — scoops are wildly inconsistent.
- Double feeding wet + dry. Count both toward one calorie total, not two.
- Forgetting treats and scraps. They belong inside the daily budget.
- Feeding to current (overweight) weight. Always target the ideal weight.
- Crash-dieting. Rapid loss risks fatty liver disease; go slow.
- Not adjusting over time. Needs change with age, season, activity, and health — recheck every few months.
When to Call Your Veterinarian
A chart is a great starting point, but see your vet if your cat:
- is losing or gaining weight without a change in feeding;
- is always hungry, or suddenly stops eating for more than a day;
- is drinking or urinating much more than usual;
- is a kitten, pregnant, or nursing (their needs change quickly);
- has diabetes, kidney disease, thyroid issues, or another chronic condition; or
- you’re simply unsure of the right target weight.
Your veterinary team can weigh your cat, assign an accurate body condition score, and build a feeding plan tailored to your cat’s health — something no general guide can fully replace.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much should I feed a 10-pound cat per day? A typical spayed/neutered, indoor 10 lb cat needs roughly 240–260 calories a day, which is about ⅔ cup of dry food or about 3 small (3 oz) cans of wet food, split into two meals. Check your food’s label calories and adjust based on your cat’s body condition.
How much wet food should a cat eat per day? It depends on the can’s calories, but a common range is 2–3 small (3 oz) cans, or 1½–2 large (5.5 oz) cans, for an average adult cat. Divide your cat’s daily calorie target by the kcal listed on your can.
Is it better to feed a cat once or twice a day? Twice a day (or more) is generally better than once. Splitting the same daily amount into two or three measured meals supports steadier energy, better portion control, and fewer begging behaviors. Kittens do best with three to four meals.
Should I leave dry food out all day? You can free-feed dry food, but measure the full day’s ration in the morning and don’t refill on sight. Many cats overeat when food is always available, so grazing is a common cause of weight gain. Puzzle or timed feeders are a good middle ground.
How do I know if I’m feeding my cat too much? Check the body condition score and the scale. If you can’t easily feel the ribs, there’s no visible waist from above, or the belly has lost its tuck, your cat is likely overweight — reduce portions gradually and recheck in a few weeks.
How many calories does my cat need? Estimate it with RER = 70 × (ideal kg)^0.75, then multiply by an activity factor (about 1.2 for a typical neutered adult). Most house cats land between roughly 150 and 300 kcal per day. See Table 1.
Why is my cat always hungry even though I feed the recommended amount? Possible reasons include food that’s too calorie-light for the volume, boredom, fast eating, or a medical issue (like hyperthyroidism or diabetes). Try more frequent measured meals, add some canned food for volume, and if the hunger is new or extreme, see your vet.
The Bottom Line
You don’t need to guess how much to feed your cat. Start from the weight-based chart above, refine it with the simple RER × activity-factor formula, convert calories into a portion using your food’s label, and then let your cat’s waistline and weight be the final judges over the next few weeks. Measure every meal, count the treats, and recheck as your cat ages or its lifestyle changes — that small routine is one of the most powerful things you can do for a long, healthy feline life.
Authoritative sources
- Cornell Feline Health Center — Obesity in Cats
- Merck Veterinary Manual — Nutritional Requirements of Small Animals
- WSAVA — Global Nutrition Guidelines & Body Condition Score charts
- Association for Pet Obesity Prevention — Cat Body Condition Scoring
- AAFCO — Understanding pet food labels
Disclaimer: This article is for general educational purposes and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Calorie figures are starting estimates that can vary by 30–50% between individual cats. Always consult your veterinarian before making significant changes to your cat’s diet, especially for kittens, pregnant or nursing cats, seniors, or cats with a health condition.
